I replaced the original hamstick coil with 25 turns of this stock and tie-wrapped it in center-loading position on the fiberglass rod. (Be sure to use the black, UV resistant, tie wraps.) I soldered a piece of #14 solid wire to each end of the coil and extended each wire to the 3/8"x24 hardware at the two ends of the fiberglass rod part of the hamstick and attached a 3/8" crimp lug to the ends of the wires. This avoids having to solder the wires to the hamstick but it is a good idea to solder the wires to the crimp lugs. The fiberglass rod portion of the hamstick is used for mechanical support only. The RF current is carried by the lugs, wire, coil, and stinger. Some hamsticks do not have 3/8" hardware at both ends but the upper connection should not be hard to figure out. A small stainless steel hose clamp would work.
Now I had a 20m hamstick with the stinger adjusted for 14.2 MHz. It didn't take a genius to figure out that this same 20m super hamstick could be used on any higher HF band by shorting out the proper number of turns on the coil. ala bugcatcher style. The shorting is done with a wire containing miniature alligator clips on each end. Here are the resonant bands Vs the number of turns shorted out from the bottom of the coil. The configuration is a 3-magnet mount on the cab of a GMC pickup measured with an MFJ-259 analyzer.
It's 48 turns from 8 TPI, 2 inch diameter coil stock.